niclights Posted June 20, 2007 Share Posted June 20, 2007 Given OP said this about silhouette effect: We also had to recreate the 'Afterglow' effect shown here - http://www.genesis-movement.co.uk/photos_m...20Afterglow.JPG Amazingly we get a pretty good effect using 6 standard halogen 'security' type lights with pink gels on and LOADS of smoke!! I would imagine this is not a concern <_< Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgray Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 “Outside the cage I see my mother spawn”.... the band roadies used to say. I believe that originally they were 1000w/28v aircraft landing lights. These later got reduced to 600w ACLs. The 1000w lamps wired 4 in series required huge cables. And their own distro. As the smoke machine technology got better, the 600w ACL’s looked almost as good, but there was a “mighty fatness” of the 1000w ACL shaft of light that was never quite equaled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbuckley Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 I believe that originally they were 1000w/28v aircraft landing lights. Just guessing here, but given that 28V is what aircraft electrics run on, I suspect the "Aircraft Landing Lamps" are actually the lamps fitted to the front of the wings of aircraft, rather than stuck in the ground, especially given that runway light bulbs are not specified in terms of voltage rating, they come (depending on age) in candlepower or watts. (Of course these lamps must have a voltage rating, but its never quoted, as runway lights are all series connected just like fairy lights, and are rated for output at the standard current of 6.6A, which is supplied by a constant current source. So the voltage across the string is whatever is necessary to maintain 6.6A through the circuit, and that voltage may be as much as 5KV either side of earth!!! Before some wag points it out, yes, failure of one lamp could lead to the entire runway being dark, so in the old days they put a thing that ruptured across each lamp, so when the lamp failed the ruptury thing got 10KV across it and quicky ruptured becoming a short, so bringing the lights back on. These days the circuit is composed of transformers, so lamp failure is non-disruptive, also now LEDs are becoming common. The history of 6.6A series lighting as used by airports and as used to be used for street lighting (and allegedly still is in SoCal) is fascinating, if you're the right kind of perv...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bricummo Posted August 17, 2007 Author Share Posted August 17, 2007 Hi guys, Finally think I've found the bulb that might do the job. Looking at getting 4 foot long aluminium boxes made loaded with Par 36 4509 100w 12v. My problem is this, I'm not sure on the best way to wire them. A few people have said individually transformer, but then some say when they all come on at once there'll be a HUGE surge. A few have suggested one large transformer to power them all, but apparently we'd need a forklift to move it! And then of course we could wire them in series (20 of them to get the 240v), but we have the christmas light worry and maybe the ones at the start od the chain would be brighter than at the end I have been told by one person. There are so many different views on how I should do this, can any of you guys help? Much appreciated. Kind regards, brian. PS. Does anyone know what ampage these lights pull either individually or in a 20 long line in series? x x x Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niclights Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 For amps you still calculate load based on supply voltage, whether you end up using transformers of wiring in series it's the same. ie. 100/230 ea or 2000/230 cumulatively. Personally I would just wire in series. There's not much difference between doing this and 8x28v P36's. You always run the risk of losing one lamp = no output but I think you'll find these bulbs are pretty resilient @ 100W. I'm not so convinced it will be bright enough though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musht Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 100W 12V is a standard size LV lighting trafo, actually usually 105VA to fit 3 x 35W.Like: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LTYT105.html Still weight and wiring of 20 of them, if you series them put a 240V neon in paralell with each lamp, though sometimes blowing lamp will take the whole string with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boatman Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 Electronic LV transformers are down in price at Screwfix just now: Linky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bricummo Posted August 17, 2007 Author Share Posted August 17, 2007 Hey guys, Just had another idea put forward, someone suggested wiring them in Parrallel with a car-battery? Apparently it'll handle the amp surge no problem and can be triggered via a relay? Wotcha think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boatman Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 Hey guys, Just had another idea put forward, someone suggested wiring them in Parrallel with a car-battery? Apparently it'll handle the amp surge no problem and can be triggered via a relay? Wotcha think? How long do you need the lamps to burn for? 1off 35W 12V lamp => 2.9A24off 35W 12V lamps => 70A A standard 80AH car battery won't last long. You'll also need to split the wiring into several relay circuits or use an industrial heavy duty contactor. Edit: Just found this relay which might do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themadhippy Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 You could also try a few pc power supply's,remote switching via the v sense and ground wires Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bricummo Posted August 17, 2007 Author Share Posted August 17, 2007 This is starting to go way over my head!!! :P The lights only need to come on for around 15 - 20 secs. I just need a simple easy way of getting em on without blowing them up. They will be triggered via Light Jockey via a Digital Dimmer probably, or if anyone else can think of a better way I'm all ears :D Thanks guys, really appreciate this. B x Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niclights Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 Just wire them up in series. This keeps it simple, cheap & will happily all run off 13A socket/10A dimmer or switchpack. Aside from having to worry about relays you really don't want to be lugging a horrible car battery on and off stage all the time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.