J Pearce Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 Indeed, I should think that if the OP has the budget for 2 movers then 4 generic lanterns (and perhaps scrollers), cabling and motors shouldn't be much different budget wise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Admachin Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 I would reccomend any type of martin as they are very long lasting and durable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peternewman Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 It is a pain, but it is possible to bounce focus.Its also worth noting here, and there may be some egg sucking training going on, that some lanterns come with disks on the pivot points (Selecon Fresnels have a good implementation of this) which would mean you could just write down some numbers and for example change between a DSC spot and a MSR one and back again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J Pearce Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 Indeed, and if not a sharpie would probably suffice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
son of lx dad Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 just as a note the city theatrical auto yoke does come with a remote focus option. tho not something I would recommend for long term install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mac.calder Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Bounce focusing winched bars is not too hard - we only have one motorised bar at our venue - which is FOH2 and whilst it is the main bar we use, it is also easily accessed by the scissor - the rest of our bars are winched and we don't have any access equiptment for the bars on stage. After the first few focuses, you learn what sort of direction you want the fixture pointing and the beam angle/focus positions. Provided you do not have to use shutters, it should not take more than three or so drops (including the initial drop to the ground for rigging) to get a really good focus. The main trick is to have the lights on as you raise the bar, and to try and predict whether it will be okay BEFORE the poor person winching the bar gets to the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryson Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Bear in mind that the fixtures discussed do have shutters, so it's fair to suppose that a bounce focus is not the way forward. Automated fixtures, for this particular use would seem to be justified. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick S Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 I'd tend to agree. However, for those suggesting a combination of scrollers and S4s - I think anyone considering that setup would be infinitely better off looking at a Seachanger, a 4-disc dichroic changer that fits in line with an S4 body. Like the old HE ColorMerge units, but without the bulk, extrusions, or the maintenance issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cormac Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Hi,Ok I know the topic starter was a moving head profile but I have seen some very nice coverage from Mac 2 k wash's with the mototrized barn doors.can't see a grid or trim height mentioned in the post's but my guess is this would save on the bounce focus issue and give you a nice even spread with 2 x fixtures,little bit less to worry about as these fixtures do not require as much attention as a spot version, Not on topic but thought I might throw it inRegard's C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBoomal Posted July 8, 2007 Share Posted July 8, 2007 Bounce focusing winched bars is not too hard - we only have one motorised bar at our venue - which is FOH2 and whilst it is the main bar we use, it is also easily accessed by the scissor - the rest of our bars are winched and we don't have any access equiptment for the bars on stage. After the first few focuses, you learn what sort of direction you want the fixture pointing and the beam angle/focus positions. Provided you do not have to use shutters, it should not take more than three or so drops (including the initial drop to the ground for rigging) to get a really good focus. The main trick is to have the lights on as you raise the bar, and to try and predict whether it will be okay BEFORE the poor person winching the bar gets to the top. I bounce focus 3 manually winched bars. You tend to get good very quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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