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Octal to din/bleecon converter leads.


Pardisaster

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ok im planning on wiring some octal (strand mini-2) to standard din adaptor leads, and am just seeking some advise before I go ahead and the get it wrong....

 

First of all,

 

Mini two's apparently run on -15v due to the thyristors technology, I know modern standard is +10v, apart from strand tempus dimmers. I am planning on running this through a demux with the neg convertor card, can the demux accomadate for the minus 15v or is it a matter of it being passeed through some other convertor previously?

 

Also anyone have any idea where I can get 5 or 6 octal connectors to make these convertors. as the ones I have, to put it politely, are not in the best of condition....

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Actually, I think the Mini2 is 0 to -10V analogue control.

 

The -15V line is desk power (same as for the Tempus & Act 6 racks, which are also 0 to -10V control). By the time you have a few diode voltage drops in an analogue desk and the resistance of the control cable, you're down to -10V.

 

Therefore all you need to do is wire your bleecon to octal leads 1:1, and use a demux with a -10V output. You don't need to connect pin 7 at either end - this is the -15V desk power, and is not required by the demux.

 

See the excellent Strand Archive for more information on your Mini2 dimmers.

 

If you're really stuck for octal plugs, one of the local amdram groups here has some they no longer use. I'm sure they'll be happy to part with them for a small consideration. PM me for further details.

 

Marc

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  • 1 year later...

resurrecting a very old thread....

 

I'm looking for a source of either a couple of octal plugs, or octal <>din/bleecon adaptors.

 

I've been roped into an event later this year in a venue which has a couple of mini-II dimmers and an extremely old analogue desk.

 

I've sourced a DMX-analogue demux, which will cope with the strand -10V oddities - all I need now is to convert the outputs to octal.

 

I've had a look on CPC, but can only find octal sockets, not plugs.

 

Any suggestions? does anyone have a couple rattling around in their junk box?

 

Bruce.

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I might have some in our store at we have some Mini-2 racks ourselves. If there are when do you need them for as I can't see us having any further use for them as our sound engineer has made us some Octal-Din connectors. Not the easiest so he told me.

 

Anyway if you let me know I'll see if we have any?

 

Paul

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Just be aware that there are some differnt standards for desks

 

eg pin outs on a tempus are different to others (or is that just in my venue)

 

Having recently built some converters to octal froam a LX desk I know what your problems are.. if I can find the details and they are any use let me know and I send them

 

A full pin diagram.. (if anyone else wants them I'll put them on the net somwhere and llnk accross

 

Let me know to dj.ej@ntlworld.com

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Actually, I think the Mini2 is 0 to -10V analogue control.

 

The -15V line is desk power (same as for the Tempus & Act 6 racks, which are also 0 to -10V control). By the time you have a few diode voltage drops in an analogue desk and the resistance of the control cable, you're down to -10V.

 

Are you sure I remember looking into this about a year ago. I cannot remember but I think I sent an email to strand about it and they came back saying that it was -15v, also if you look in the mini2 instructions on strand archive it says its -15v in there as well, not 100% sure just my 2p

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Why not just modify the dimmer to use readily available connectors - e.g. DIN8

 

Cos they ain't my dimmers... they're hard-wired into a venue where they're only used very occasionally, and for most of those purposes the existing desk is adeqate. The event I'm working on is a "one-off" - there could potentially be one more "one-off" event, but no more - the building gets demolished in 18 months!

 

So an adaptor is simpler and more convenient...

 

Just be aware that there are some differnt standards for desks

 

eg pin outs on a tempus are different to others (or is that just in my venue)

 

There are at least 3 "common" standards. There's the "standard standard", as used by Zero88 and many others.

 

And there's the "Strand standard", which is the same as above, but uses -10V rather than +10V.

 

And there is the "Pulsar standard" - which is +10v, but a different pin-out.

 

Details HERE.

 

Bruce.

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Ask your local guitar amp repairer for some dead el34 valves. Removing the valve leaves you an octal plug. What you could do is to wire in a bleecon socket with short leads and stick it in the base, fill with araldite, and you have a "hard" bleecon to octal converter.

 

Or, the local lift repairman (or anyone who looks after automation based things) will throw several octal based things (relays, timers, modules) in the bin a week, and some of them will be eight pin (most will be 11 pin "octal"). Modules are particularly handy, the often have metal boxes (about the same size as a relay) which you can cut for a bleecon, again making a hard adapter.

 

Theres a bit of an art to soldering (and unsoldering) octals, someone old can probably do it in their sleep :-)

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Potting one up to make a "hard" adaptor - good idea! We don't have anything like that in our (IT) workshop, but I know of several other workshops :** laughs out loud **:...

 

What's so difficult about soldering them? It must be easier than doing the 8-pin DIN/bleecon! When I'm doing them, I usually find I need about 3 hands, each of which is half the size of mine...

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I was going to post something along the lines of why bother, as bleecon and DIN mate, but then I read more carefully what you said. Are you sure they are octal, as our old Mini 2's had bleecons on the end (I think, whatever they had certainly mated to a bleecon plug).

 

HTH

 

PN

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What's so difficult about soldering them?

 

The process is to bare about three quarters of an inch of wire, then tin it, and then place inside the pin till it sticks out the end a tadge, and you then get a big blob of solder on a decently powered hot iron, pop it on the wire where it touches the pin, and the solder will "wick" up the inside of the pin. Then trim the wire flush with the end of the pin, and then a quick touch of the iron to get rid of the sharp end. Of course, the plastic of the wire in the pin gets melted, so its all a bit smelly. And too much enthusiasm on pins with a plastic plug causes the pin to drop out altogether.

 

Thus to undo one of these things you need to get the wire out, and then clear the inside of the pin of solder, so heat plus a blast of compressed air does it nicely...

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OK - now I need some more help....

 

I've managed to get hold of a couple of octal plugs. (ebay, under vintage radio spares!)

 

I know the pinout - from the strand archive and various other sources - pins 1-6 for channels 1-6, pin 7 for V-, pin 8 ground. The same numbering is used for octal and DIN/Bleecon.

 

I know and understand the strange, but entirely logical, way that DIN plugs and sockets are numbered (6142537 and all that..)

 

BUT - the one piece of information I don't have - how are the pins on the octal connector numbered!

 

As far as I can gather, valve bases are traditionally numbered 1-8 clockwise when looking "up" from the pin side, or from the wiring side of the socket, with the key on the central pin pointing to the gap between 1 and 8.

 

If that's correct, then I've got enough info to build the thing. But I'm looking for some confirmation - or at least reassurance - before I fire up the soldering iron.

 

Bruce.

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