New to LED tape - for an upcoming install

[timsabre]

OK, well you can faff around with diodes getting the correct voltage out of something unsuitable, or you can buy the right thing in the first place. I know which I'd recommend. I've seen a whole load of LED installations fail because of bodging on the power supply.

 

Tim

[mack lx]

PM sent

[stillwave]

Enough people have already noted about the need for Regulated power supplies so I shall add a note about the install of the LED Tape, the stuff I've worked with sticks very easily (just double sided tape) but it should be noted that whilst it is very flexible along the 'thin axis' it isn't along the width axis i.e. fixing it to a wall in a flat 'L' shape. Although with it being relatively easy to cut & re-terminate so it is possible to shape it in this way but would require time to cut & terminate at those corners.

 

the O/P also mentioned that they wanted the "how to basics" so remember that most LED products currently available are not considered bright enough for general room lighting, but what it is very good at is feature lighting in tight spaces such as alcoves which is what I guess is the O/P application of the LED Tape

 

Regards,

Ben Wainwright

[musht]

Ok drummed in regulated power supplies, which are not expensive if you shop around, hint adding words `LED Driver` adds a massive loading to price a of a standard 12V DC regulated PSU.

 

Self adhesive tapes need a good , clean dry surface to adhere to, not flaky emulsion and cracking plasterwork, if necessary create a track for the tape with ramin moulding or timber strip fixed to the surface and stick the tape to that, don`t want expensive LED becoming unstuck, punters find it fascinating...

[Jamtastic3]

Thanks for all your replies guys.

 

So from my understanding (from power source to LED tape end)....

 

I have the incoming power (240v), I place a transformer on the end of this (LED specific 12v DC) and have 2 wires come from this that I solder to the tape (+ and -), the tape can be up to 5m long..... then switch on?

 

If I have 13 metres to light then I have 1 x 240v to 3 x240v supplies divided along the route to each 5m, 5m and 3m strip with trannies in place....???

 

I've heard the PSU mentioned but what is this in relation to the transformer?

What's the difference of the difference wattage of transformers (ie 1- 9W, 1- 16W etc)

 

Correctly me greatly if I'm wrong anywhere - the last thing I want is to put the tape in and then burn everything out!

[musht]

Thanks for all your replies guys.

 

I've heard the PSU mentioned but what is this in relation to the transformer?

What's the difference of the difference wattage of transformers (ie 1- 9W, 1- 16W etc)

 

Correctly me greatly if I'm wrong anywhere - the last thing I want is to put the tape in and then burn everything out!

 

Power Supply Unit, in some cases just a transformer, in case of LED PSU a bit more.

 

Referring to Screwfix ,1-9W is constant current ,16 W is constant voltage

 

Burn everything out, its cool few of us ready to pick up the pieces, there are limits to free advice ;-)

[Joe White]

Ok to correct probably everybodys post on here so far. DO NOT use a 12v Regulated Transformer of any kind on these led tapes!.

L.E.D's are Current devices not Voltage. The corrects PSU's for LED's are normally about 24v and its a regulated Constant current source.

http://www.collingwoodlighting.co.uk/cnb/s...topLevelCatID=1

 

Ta Joe

[musht]

You`ll notice on linked page the PSUs illustrated are mix of Lumidrives constant current and Meanwell closed frame constant voltage PSUs.

 

Constant current would be appropriate for the high power LED linear wall washers Collingwood stock.

 

Applying constant current to low power flexible LED tape will let the smoke out.

[sleah]

Ok to correct probably everybodys post on here so far. DO NOT use a 12v Regulated Transformer of any kind on these led tapes!.

L.E.D's are Current devices not Voltage. The corrects PSU's for LED's are normally about 24v and its a regulated Constant current source.

http://www.collingwoodlighting.co.uk/cnb/s...topLevelCatID=1

 

Ta Joe

 

If you use the tape I and a couple of others have linked to, be cautious with the advice above! The tape I linked to - and have indeed bought some of - is CLEARLY MARKED 12V DC, the PSU's above are rated at 24v and 36v so there is a danger of frying the LEDs. The tape already has currently limiting resistors.

 

If Joe is correct, why have I not burned out loads of LEDs with such 12v PSUs with suitable resistors???

 

I suspect Joe's link is for when you are creating LED projects from compnent level, i.e. using individual or clusters of LEDs that do not have current limiting of any kind already supplied or built-in.

[Tomo]

Some LED tapes require Constant Current supplies, others require Constant Voltage - it depends on the specific product chosen.

 

So pick your tape and power supply together, and be sure they match.

The power rating depends on the length and type of LED strip it's going to power, so you have to treat the whole as a system.

 

With regards to the supply frequencies - I've seen several relatively large installations that thought they could skimp on the power supplies because it was 'just LED', and it was a very costly mistake. Be careful.

[back_ache]

Ok to correct probably everybodys post on here so far. collingwoodlighting

I've installed a few collingwood led DMX drivers.....not great

 

power supplys for led products are a confusing area, even though one of the PSU's I have been supplied with was straight for maplin (plus a huge markup) I would always stick with the supplier recommendation that way if you do have an issue then they can't wriggle out of it by blaming your choice of psu. It's a pity you have to be so precautionary but LED products are still very much cowboy country.

[mutley]

OK, providing your LED strip wants a constant voltage source of 12V, and maybe you want some more over on this bit or stuck here...... One cheap, reliable and simple method of obtaining a high current, regulated, supply of 5V, 12V or 3.3V, is to use a computer power pack.

 

The old style AT type (with proper mains switch) is probably a bit easier, but hard to find one still working. A modern ATX one rated at over 300W (normally rated at about 8A for 12V DC, and 22A for 5V DC) will cost about £10 from CPC (item: CS1620501, £8.95 + VAT)

 

To switch it on, simply short out the thinner green wire to one of the black ground wires. (A load may need to be present on either the +12V or +5V lines on some PSUs in order for it to work)

 

The yellow wires are +12V, the reds are +5V, and the oranges are +3.3V. All the blacks are common ground (not to be confused with 'Earth' although in most cases are connected.)

 

I use an ATX PSU as a bench power supply for testing various things. One major advantage is they are short circuit proof! Any short circuit, overload, or overheating will result in the PSU automatically shutting itself down.

 

Also, have you considered using LED rope light? You can buy it in any length you want, in multiples of 1.5m (normally), or in preset lengths: £24.45 @ CPC

That way, just plug it into the mains, job done!

[Jamtastic3]

Also, have you considered using LED rope light? You can buy it in any length you want, in multiples of 1.5m (normally), or in preset lengths: £24.45 @ CPC

That way, just plug it into the mains, job done!

 

 

I have considered it but I haven't seen any red LED ropelight to justify it's output and reliability. I'm guessing that because the LED's face horizontally rather than vertically along the plain, the output is less compared to tape. But this would be my next 'budget' option before the filament based stuff.

 

 

Thanks for all your replies and PM's guys. It seems all a bit confusing but if I stick to getting PSU's that come with the particular tape then I should get somewhere. Just got to find prices and quotes I guess to see if this ball will roll or not...

[GregB]

Could be as easy as nipping in to any good whole saler and buying a kit (eg. CEF)

SILITE have SRT01 good for 18meter from single power supply.

Beam angle is often wide as previously stated (120 deg.)

A strip you can surface mount and screw fix is the Robus 'LED Striplight' also sold as a kit.

From my experience buy the right PSU for the lights or be prepeared to revisit and repair.

[Jamtastic3]

Hi guys.

So there's LED ropelight, LED tape and now I'm looking into LED Neon Flex. Anyone installed ths stuff before?

 

It seems to be a bit cheaper than LED tape and a little more rebust (even if it's not going to be touched) but does anyone know what the light output is like for neon flex?

 

http://www.ideallights.co.uk/corporate/ledneonflex.php

 

 

Cheers!