Chamsys Users

[spartacus]

Grrr...

 

Postage must be real expensive. Now I'm annoyed.

[sessiondrummer]

MagicQ PC Wing AUD$5400 RRP

:D

 

Really?! If my currency conversion is correct, that's well over 3,000 UK pounds - three times what I paid for my PC wing a few years back.

 

 

Pc wing is £1400

[DonkiDonki]

Good news on the UPS front, I think I have found some solutions.

 

There are a couple of types of DC atx psu's I've found, one for desktop use via a 12V dc mains adaptor and another for automotive use via vehicle battery.

 

Size is good as they are basically tiny circuit boards (the desktop version actually fits in the motherboard power connector), cost and weight are both acceptable.

 

I am currently trying to find out if the vehicle version would also run from a desktop mains adaptor as it has advanced circuitry to handle power variations. (6-24V supply, safe handling of dips & spikes) where as the desktop version relies on a steady 12V.

 

To run these I have found universal laptop batteries and chargers, these are compact and fairly lightweight with reasonable cost. I would use two; one for the motherboard and one for the main lcd monitor and PC Wing.

 

The current project fund is about to be spent on the two 15" touch-screens so I have plenty of time to research this power stuff before choosing anything.

 

A concurrent post has been automatically merged from this point on.

 

Here's some pictures of the current design, I'm going to give the clamshell a go.

 

http://i993.photobucket.com/albums/af59/donkidonki/MagicQ%20Project/ConsoledesignB-front-open.jpg

http://i993.photobucket.com/albums/af59/donkidonki/MagicQ%20Project/ConsoledesignB-front-closed.jpg

 

Anyone got any good tips for handling the cable loom which will cross the hinge? (I will keep it as close to the hinge as possible to minimize movement)

[gyro_gearloose]

It may just be the angle that your designs are being viewed from, but those screens look square rather than the 4:3 ratio of normal monitors. As for running the cable loom for the screens, because the screens fold a long way I'd have the cables run along the folding axis for the whole width of the console. This means that as the screens are folded, the cable loom is twisted along its entire length rather than being folded in one small area.

[DonkiDonki]

It may just be the angle that your designs are being viewed from, but those screens look square rather than the 4:3 ratio of normal monitors. As for running the cable loom for the screens, because the screens fold a long way I'd have the cables run along the folding axis for the whole width of the console. This means that as the screens are folded, the cable loom is twisted along its entire length rather than being folded in one small area.

 

Thanks for that tip.

 

The screen size is generic on that design, I'm picking up the actual screens today so I can work out the actual dimensions for that bit soon.

 

A concurrent post has been automatically merged from this point on.

 

There has been some interest in my wysiwyg model of a PC-Wing so here is a link to the file.

It was created in R24 but it's saved in R22, I could try saving it in an even older version if anyone would like it.

WYSIWYG R22 - Chamsys PC Wing

 

Apologies for all the advertising on the host site but it is free, can anyone recommend a better hosting site?

[Matthew Robinson]

Anyone got any good tips for handling the cable loom which will cross the hinge? (I will keep it as close to the hinge as possible to minimize movement)

 

Use multistrand cable so that it's more flexible and less likely to break.

Put cable in a position where it doesn't have to move too much.

Allow a decent length of cable, so that it is never taut.

Ribbon cable is better than round cable.

 

Perhaps you could use a plug and socket arrangement so you don't have that situation.

[matt c]

Ribbon cable is better than round cable.

 

Perhaps you could use a plug and socket arrangement so you don't have that situation.

 

+2...

 

Make up some small PCBs that have a ribbon connector on, and then use a standard IDC cable assembly to link the two. That way, if it does fail, it's a relatively easy thing to replace.

 

If your LCDs have a digital interface, then this makes it much easier than trying to get a super-flexi coax cable for analogue signals.

 

Do check the minimum bend radius on the cable, as keeping it as close as possible to the hinge line may not be the best way.

 

If you want to get really good, look at using FFCs. These are what's used in laptops around the hinge. Depending on your LCD, you may find that they have an FFC on them. If this is the case, it would be worth trying to source a longer one, and moving any additional circuitry into the base.

 

As a side point on FFCs, be very very careful with them. They are fragile things, and most are only rated for 10 or so operations before the plastic is worn out so much that they don't stay fastened. Watch for things like odd colours, display shifting and rolling. These are usually signs of a bad connection.

[Mark M]

Depending on the config of the monitors within the case I think you will struggle to get the power cords to stay in while the lid is shut without putting excess stress on them. I may be more tempted to build a little draw that you can coil the cables up into and then put a little flap in or something so they can be plugged in and have no extruding parts to get knocked. Whilst not as slick, it will only take you 60 seconds to get them both hooked up.

[DonkiDonki]

Just picked up my two 15" open-frame touch-screens from ProTouch; they are both B grade stock but look brand new, a real bargain with the deal I got on them.

 

I know they have a few more B grade screens left, and while I won't disclose how much I paid, I will bet anyone interested would not be disappointed.

If you would like to get your hands on one, ask for Adrian at ProTouch.

ProTouch - touch screens

(apologies to the moderators if this is too much like blatant advertising, I just thought there might be a few people here interested - I'm honestly not getting any commision)

[Matthew Robinson]

Depending on the config of the monitors within the case I think you will struggle to get the power cords to stay in while the lid is shut without putting excess stress on them. I may be more tempted to build a little draw that you can coil the cables up into and then put a little flap in or something so they can be plugged in and have no extruding parts to get knocked. Whilst not as slick, it will only take you 60 seconds to get them both hooked up.

 

Then leave a decent cable length, so they never get pulled taught, and that should solve the problem...?

[Joe Bleasdale]

Not a selling post. But wow that looks like a Vector! If get the screen limit right it is a great way to have the screens. When you stand up it is the right height to see the screens without glare, then when you sit down you can re-angle them again to suit your seating position. However one thing I have found is the actual height of the console (from console feet, to buttons) can sometimes be an issue (with a few consoles), for example some of them you need a taller chair to press the buttons effectivly as by the time you have put the desk on a table, you chair isn't quite high enough to be comfortable.

 

Best Regards,

 

Moderation: Edited to remove unnecessary quote, including repeating the large pictures from before. Note that the BR style is to keep quotes to the minimum necessary for clarity and certainly not to repeat big blocks like photos.

[DonkiDonki]

Height is one of my major concerns, along with overall size and weight (oh, and cost...)

It's going to be quite a challenge getting the balance right, I intend to build a rough version first which can be tweaked for the finished effort. (I know it will be heavier than I'd like as my only decent construction skills are in wood - maybe once it's built I might try to find someone who can remake the casing from lighter materials)

 

For the initial build I have decided to use an external UPS, depending on the final weight of the console this may live in the same flight case but I won't try to mount it internally. (purely down to cost; UPS@ £100, internal DC batteries & bits@ £300)

 

I have the touch screens now, dimensions are close to what I had guessed; just slightly bigger. They are heavier than I expected as they have glass touch-screens so the hinge is going to need to be substantial, I am thinking of a full width hinge like the kind used on some flight cases.

 

I have just ordered a StarTech USB-VGA adapter, hopefully combined with two outputs from the computer this will let me drive the three touch-screens; I will try it on my desktop when it arrives. (I'm not entirely convinced it will work, but it's cheap so worth a go)

 

It will be a while before I can go any further with this project as I need to replenish the cash fund to buy the PC bits. Whilst the Atom stuff is tempting I think I will end up with a low end Dual Core Pentium in a mini-itx motherboard. (Chamsys tell me a decent Atom will be fine but I would feel happier with a little performance headroom)

[Joe Bleasdale]

Height is one of my major concerns, along with overall size and weight (oh, and cost...)

It's going to be quite a challenge getting the balance right, I intend to build a rough version first which can be tweaked for the finished effort. (I know it will be heavier than I'd like as my only decent construction skills are in wood - maybe once it's built I might try to find someone who can remake the casing from lighter materials)

 

The Hog 2 had wooden parts, it still became a legend ;)

 

Best Regards,

[stevefez]

It will be a while before I can go any further with this project as I need to replenish the cash fund to buy the PC bits. Whilst the Atom stuff is tempting I think I will end up with a low end Dual Core Pentium in a mini-itx motherboard. (Chamsys tell me a decent Atom will be fine but I would feel happier with a little performance headroom)

What are you intending to do computer enclosure wise? obviously keeping it small and light will be key, so are you looking at building the pc yourself into a custom type enclosure or purchase/find a prebuilt minipc?

 

EDIT: SPAG

[DonkiDonki]

]What are you intending to do computer enclosure wise? obviously keeping it small and light will be key, so are you looking at building the pc yourself into a custom type enclosure or purchase/find a prebuilt minipc?

 

The aim is to get everything into one box, it looks like a mini-itx board will fit quite easily behind the screens.