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LED Uplighting


woody01

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+1 for 16amp T-Line connectors.

All my LED Par 64 Cans have the 16amp t-lines, not the cheapest connectors out there but very easy to use, although slightly bulky.

 

Lots of short DMX cables, 1m, 2m and 3m 16amp calbes and the jobs done very quickly!

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It is really easy in AU: Just use 10A piggy back connectors on your par-cans (or piggy back extension leads)

 

 

Ha the instant I read the first post I thought Piggyback! Then I thought best have a look where hes located.

 

And what would the purpose of a lead so short? it looks only 10cm long in the pic.

 

Just annoying the restrictions in place regarding the rewireable ones... It would be nice if I had a spare $550 to buy a pack of 100. Even though I only need 10.......

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It is really easy in AU: Just use 10A piggy back connectors on your par-cans (or piggy back extension leads)

 

 

Ha the instant I read the first post I thought Piggyback! Then I thought best have a look where hes located.

 

And what would the purpose of a lead so short? it looks only 10cm long in the pic.

 

Just annoying the restrictions in place regarding the rewireable ones... It would be nice if I had a spare $550 to buy a pack of 100. Even though I only need 10.......

 

Finding an image of the re-wireable ones is really difficult on line... Hence the extension lead

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It is really easy in AU: Just use 10A piggy back connectors on your par-cans (or piggy back extension leads)

 

Hmmmm, what approvals do those things have? If they've got something suitably international then there'd be no reason not to import a load.

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It is really easy in AU: Just use 10A piggy back connectors on your par-cans (or piggy back extension leads)

 

Hmmmm, what approvals do those things have? If they've got something suitably international then there'd be no reason not to import a load.

 

 

Approvals being?

 

I just know that if you by them from say Clipsal they will have been tested and meet some Australian/New Zealand certification.

I believe that is all they require for them to be legally sold in NZ, but in Oz its slightly different.

They can carry 10A 250V. Obviously no internal fuses or anything of that nature. The only safety device it has is insulated pins. Downside is all you have to do is look at them the wrong way and the pins will bend.

Last price that quoted to me by a Electrical Wholesaler (AWM for anyone in Oz) was $5 ea Ex GST Which wont apply to anyone overseas.

 

Going slightly off topic here.

 

But in Australia the sale of re-wireable piggyback plugs is restricted. In Victoria you have to sign a form stating you wont do this you wont do that etc. etc. and you can only purchase in OEM lots of 100. Which is a pain when you only want a few.

I believe these laws came about by someone doing a bit of home renovation. sticking a Male plug on one end and sticking a Piggyback on the other. You can guess the results. There are actually quite a few different stories as to why they changed the laws in regard to piggyback plugs.

 

A concurrent post has been automatically merged from this point on.

 

It is really easy in AU: Just use 10A piggy back connectors on your par-cans (or piggy back extension leads)

 

 

Ha the instant I read the first post I thought Piggyback! Then I thought best have a look where hes located.

 

And what would the purpose of a lead so short? it looks only 10cm long in the pic.

 

Just annoying the restrictions in place regarding the rewireable ones... It would be nice if I had a spare $550 to buy a pack of 100. Even though I only need 10.......

 

Finding an image of the re-wireable ones is really difficult on line... Hence the extension lead

 

What can you think of that would require a 10cm long ext lead?

 

And I think the person who invented the piggyback plug is a genius!

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Well... When you don't have piggy back plugs on all your LED's and are against daisy chaining power boards, 10cm piggybacks are a godsend.... Or when you are wiring up a truss, and the first couple of movers out from the power drop are about 5-10cm short of the power drop... I frequently wish I had more short leads to be honest, cos I still have this dream that one day I will neaten up a truss and every lead will be of perfect length. It is like the dream of the perfect prep, where you rock up to a decent sized show and at the end, you have not had to make any runs for emergency gear, and every case that leaves the room, leaves it empty.

 

10cm leads are also great when you want to illustrate a piggyback plug, not wanting to go into photoshop to illustrate the point is nice, because with a 10m coil of lead in the image, the plug is very hard to see...

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Hey,

 

Does anyone know of a product that can link power for led par cans around the room rather than using a number of leads back and forth?

 

Such as par can 1 to 2 to 3 to 4 etc....

 

Thanks!

 

 

Hi, At our school I have bought a mixer called Scene 24 from http://www.terralec.co.uk/ . (£179) We are new to this but you can send one lead from the mixer to a can and then onto the next and so on. You can have all the lights being controlled together or individually. Fabulous company with lightening quick delivery.

 

Best wishes DB

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Hi, At our school I have bought a mixer called Scene 24 from http://www.terralec.co.uk/ . (£179) We are new to this but you can send one lead from the mixer to a can and then onto the next and so on. You can have all the lights being controlled together or individually. Fabulous company with lightening quick delivery.

Unfortunately you have not understood the question. I find that rather disappointing.

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Hi, At our school I have bought a mixer called Scene 24 from http://www.terralec.co.uk/ . (£179) We are new to this but you can send one lead from the mixer to a can and then onto the next and so on. You can have all the lights being controlled together or individually. Fabulous company with lightening quick delivery.

Unfortunately you have not understood the question. I find that rather disappointing.

I don't think that a lot has been understood...

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Finding an image of the re-wireable ones is really difficult on line... Hence the extension lead

 

http://davidbuckley.name/pix/dimmerplugs.jpg

 

One could note that the top half of the plug is see-through, so visual inspection is a doddle...

 

The $%^&*() connectors we use instead of c17s at 16A and 32A also have see-through bodies...

 

http://www.5rprocessors.com/productcart/pc/catalog/img_4978_339_detail.jpg

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Finding an image of the re-wireable ones is really difficult on line... Hence the extension lead

 

http://davidbuckley.name/pix/dimmerplugs.jpg

 

One could note that the top half of the plug is see-through, so visual inspection is a doddle...

 

The $%^&*() connectors we use instead of c17s at 16A and 32A also have see-through bodies...

 

http://www.5rprocessors.com/productcart/pc/catalog/img_4978_339_detail.jpg

 

 

The real UP LIGHT spots if you want better performance must have power minimum 14x3W and best sollution is

neutrik power plug IN and OUT at the housing of spot, so you can link pover wire from one to other.

Like Chauvet Kolorado full color. We use them and they have

excelent color mixing and output power which is comparable to classic PAR 56 with 300-500W bulb, depend on color.

 

That is out experience. :angry:

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The real UP LIGHT spots if you want better performance must have power minimum 14x3W and best solution is

neutrik power plug IN and OUT at the housing of spot, so you can link power wire from one to other.

Like Chauvet Kolorado full color. We use them and they have

excelent color mixing and output power which is comparable to classic PAR 56 with 300-500W bulb, depend on color.

 

That is out experience. :angry:

 

Im assuming your saying that an decent LED par can should have at least 14x 3W RGB LED's (or RGBA or RGBAW) and the best power method is PowerCon in/out. I know of some ShowTechnology 'LED' brand cans have this.

 

I still find it easier to chuck a Piggyback plug on the end and just use Piggyback Ext leads everywhere than having a Packer full on almost useless Powercon/Speakon leads of various lengths.

 

I know of a space that has 14 of these Show Tech 'LED' units that have 20x 3w RGB LED's and they a magnificent job of competing with 1kw 120v Par 64's and a good old fashioned Stand rig comprising of 1 and 2kw fixtures (The install is approximately 30 years old).

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