Homemade Truss

[paulears]

You want to hardwire socapex to the cans permanently? How on earth would you transport it? Soca is quite stiff and horrible - having 6 cans hanging off one end is a bit weird! If you stick with 15A, then socapex spider for the dimmers, with 6 plugs, socapex spider for the other end with 6 sockets and whatever cable length fits your normal requirements. However - soca is VERY expensive - loomed up TRS is much cheaper - but of course not so nice.

 

In your now aborted truss question - you also linked to two chord truss a heavily loaded 6m length is pretty strong vertically, but if the stands started to fall, then any twist would severely reduce the load capacity.

[kerry davies]

Jake, it is good to see you asking for advice but each time you post seems to raise a different question which does show your inexperience. The question of where you will get power from in a school hall, how safe a non-electrician setting it all up would be and your admitted lack of knowledge on truss all leads one way.

 

You give the impression of needing to get some more hands-on experience and basic knowledge before trying to do these things. I far prefer honest postings like yours than any number of "know-it-all" posts but I have to err on the side of caution and say find someone near you to mentor you with these things.

 

What you are actually providing a good example of is the old saying that "a little knowledge is a dangerous thing". Please don't take offence, it is just another learning experience.

[handyandi]

On the same track as your socapex/glads box ideas, another option other than Paul's tails suggestion is one of these but based on the assumption you could not afford truss to start with the addition of any socapex related products rather defeats the budget argument.

[Dj Dunc]

Alternatively buy something like the things you get made by transcension (Im thinking the probar range now discontinued) that have the DMX dimmer built into the bar, and output on IEC. We have 4 units at work which have a direct spigot mount to them, and will take up to 8 lights. We use the built in dimmer for parcans, and then we just mount our LED's utilising the additional fixing points on the bar, and run hard power into them directly, chaining the DMX from the dimmer.

 

EDIT: See here. http://www.thomann.de/gb/botex_t6_bar.htm or http://www.thomann.de/gb/stairville_led_powerdmx_bar.htm

[Brett]

HI

 

I was looking in to trussing and found it a wee bit to expensive so I wondered if I could make my own this was my plan;

 

It has to be able to fit in the back of a car

 

so if I used this stuff;

http://www.stage-ele...x?code=504-8883

and then used these to connect it together

http://www.stage-ele...x?code=514-0695

use these to turn it in to the triangle shape

http://www.stage-ele...x?code=504-9198

 

the span I was thinking of was about 6m to fill the school hall I do discos at.

 

now to the electrical side,

 

the top rail I wanted to be a IWB fitted with 15A sockets 1 for every fitting I was looking at 6x64's and 6x56's (64's on the rear and 56's in front) and then fitted with IEC plugs

to connect each length of the IWB together

OR

Do I just for get this idea and but some T bars?

 

 

Hi

 

If this helps 6m run (used)

 

Ladder 200 series £111.30 + vat

Opti Trilite 200 series £271.00 + vat

 

Problem solved above costs are more than reasonable

 

Please do not try to construct or copy this product it could come back to bite you!!!!! it must be tested

 

 

 

Reagrds

 

Brett

[LXbydesign]

Mate, have a look for truss in CPC or Thoman.

 

Prices there are good and its fine for what you need it for!

[Ynot]

Just one question...

How are you planning to hang or support this truss, IF you go that route?

 

Either way you'll need more than one stand, or hanging support. I'm not best acquainted with the actual specs but I'd put money on you needing at least THREE points to support a 6m span...

[Jake R]

HI

 

You want to hardwire socapex to the cans permanently? How on earth would you transport it? Soca is quite stiff and horrible - having 6 cans hanging off one end is a bit weird! If you stick with 15A, then socapex spider for the dimmers, with 6 plugs, socapex spider for the other end with 6 sockets and whatever cable length fits your normal requirements. However - soca is VERY expensive - loomed up TRS is much cheaper - but of course not so nice.

 

 

The way that I have seen it that you place them so they stand with the T bar in the middle and the can supporting it.

I think I will just keep the dimmer by the T-bar it makes more sence and looking at Socapex it's not the nicest of stuff as you say. I'm just going to loom up some TRSand cable tie it to the T bar, I only do a few discos a year and we do mainly use the stage.

 

Jake, it is good to see you asking for advice but each time you post seems to raise a different question which does show your inexperience. The question of where you will get power from in a school hall, how safe a non-electrician setting it all up would be and your admitted lack of knowledge on truss all leads one way.

 

 

I know sorry. We all ready have the power to the hall I made up a 63A splitter. We have 4x63A commando sockets for our dimmer packs back stage. I'm not a proper sparky but I DO know my electrics.

 

Alternatively buy something like the things you get made by transcension (Im thinking the probar range now discontinued) that have the DMX dimmer built into the bar, and output on IEC. We have 4 units at work which have a direct spigot mount to them, and will take up to 8 lights. We use the built in dimmer for parcans, and then we just mount our LED's utilising the additional fixing points on the bar, and run hard power into them directly, chaining the DMX from the dimmer.

EDIT: See here. http://www.thomann.d...otex_t6_bar.htm or http://www.thomann.d...owerdmx_bar.htm

 

 

I all ready have 3 pulsar dimmer packs the point of getting them was so that I can not only have 6 lights per bar (all on there own channel or 8 fitting a bar and double the ends up) but I can also add in some other par cans like floor standing ones using the remaining sockets.

 

I have seen them on Ebay and thought about getting them.

 

Thanks

Jake

 

 

[paulears]

Jake - You made a 63A splitter. This worries me a bit because it seems your school don't quite understand stage techniques (hence the truss original question) and don't sound competent to realise the implications of a 63A splitter. Let's say you move on, and the year after somebody finds it and uses it to connect 3 dimmer packs to one 63A outlet. To people who don't know, this seems perfectly sensible. They won't know that each one cannot deliver the load indicated on the front - MAX 6 X 10A, or whatever. Then for safety, this means you are relying on the circuit protection being in good order, and your splitter being up to the job - as in using the right cable and components. I'm assuming you built a box of some kind with three sockets and either one input connector, or maybe a length of cable and a plug? How about cable ratings? or were you clever and added some DIN rail and some breakers? Metal box, bonding? From my experience with college students, the absolute mess they can make with just putting 15A plugs and sockets on a bit of cable makes me wonder a bit? Schools being schools, they use anything they have with no though, and industrial kit is totally ignored when the firm come in to do PAT testing. 13A to 63A? Nah - best ignore it!

[LXbydesign]

I'm not a proper sparky but I DO know my electrics.

 

Thats ok then. So if a fire breaks out due to an electrical fault and it comes down to your wiring and made up jumper / distro you wont be liable at all will you - because you KNOW your electrics!!

 

I 'know' my electrics as well, but if I make up anything for an temp install, I always get my qualified sparky friend to sign it off before it gets used!

[Jake R]

HI

 

 

Right you don't understand. I didn't explain it propley. This it the exatact thing.

63A Commado -10mm H07 (4 meter)- MK sentry Consumer unit (16W INSULATED)- 100A Main Switch- 30MA-80A RCD-

10A MCB-13A Double socket-Lighting Console

10A MCB-13A Double socket-Sound Console

16A MCB-16A Commado Socket-Speakers

16A MCB- 16A Commado socket- Dimmer pack-Soundlab 4 Channel-DMX pack

16A MCB- 16A Commado socket- Dimmer pack-Soundlab 4 Channel-DMX pack

32A MCB- 32A Commado socket- Dimmer pack-Pulsar 6x10A

32A MCB- 32A Commado socket- Dimmer pack-Puslar 6x10A

 

Checked by a sparky and our technical director be for use!

Won't be used due to a paddle lock on the Consumer unit.

 

IT DOESN'T split 1x 63A plug into any 63A sockets

Thanks

Jake

[david.elsbury]

Why have you used a 100A main breaker rather than a 63A?

 

And I am curious, not being from the UK, is there a 13A breaker available? It seems odd to me to protect the 13A sockets at 10A?

[Smiffy]

Its time for 'that' picture isn't it?

 

http://www.stagesafe.co.uk/user_images/c466atlantic2.jpg

 

 

Rigged by people that KNOW what they are doing

 

Rigged in a Venue that had APPROVED what was to be done

 

I believe the Approval came from the VENUES STRUCTURAL ENGINEER

 

They were VERY VERY VERY VERY LUCKY - Nobody died....

 

You try and jerry-rig something, even a truss, based on the knowledge shown in this thread, over my kids, and you would be needing a very fast car if I found out about it....

 

Harsh, but a points a point I'm afraid (pun intended)

 

Cheers

 

Smiffy

[themadhippy]

Why have you used a 100A main breaker rather than a 63A?

most probably what was fitted in the disboard by the manufacters

And I am curious, not being from the UK, is there a 13A breaker available? It seems odd to me to protect the 13A sockets at 10A?

There are,but there nearly as rare as an honest MP, 15/16A or 20A is the normal choice.

[Ynot]

HI

 

 

Right you don't understand. I didn't explain it propley. This it the exatact thing.

63A Commado -10mm H07 (4 meter)- MK sentry Consumer unit (16W INSULATED)- 100A Main Switch- 30MA-80A RCD-

10A MCB-13A Double socket-Lighting Console

10A MCB-13A Double socket-Sound Console

16A MCB-16A Commado Socket-Speakers

16A MCB- 16A Commado socket- Dimmer pack-Soundlab 4 Channel-DMX pack

16A MCB- 16A Commado socket- Dimmer pack-Soundlab 4 Channel-DMX pack

32A MCB- 32A Commado socket- Dimmer pack-Pulsar 6x10A

32A MCB- 32A Commado socket- Dimmer pack-Puslar 6x10A

 

Checked by a sparky and our technical director be for use!

Won't be used due to a paddle lock on the Consumer unit.

 

IT DOESN'T split 1x 63A plug into any 63A sockets

Thanks

Jake

Hmmm.....

I was going to ask what the hell a Commando Socket was, but Googled instead...

Around here you'll get fewer quizzical looks if you called them Ceeforms...