13a to 15a

[paulears]

Forgive me - but a lamp burning at 3000 seems to make the difference between a winter ambient and heat of the summer in Oz seem a bit insignificant? The filament strength at these low (by the burn temp) ambient temperatures makes little sense to me.

 

I'm quite familiar with the theory of pre-heat, but unless you intend repeating the process frequently, I cannot see how a lamp will object to having power applied by flicking a switch. I don't remember changing lamps in the workers more frequently that ones that are run via dimmers = although I guess I've come across it more with domestic lamps at home. I see the theory, but am somewhat sceptical about the actual lamp savings, and warning somebody intending to simply power up something with an adaptor cable seems overly cautious and potentially one of those chinese whisper warmings that we spend much time putting to death.

 

I'm quite sure I lose more PARs from dimmer flashing than I do 1K workers with a switch?

[ramdram]

If you could see our bills for blown bubbles, which were switched to 100% from cold, cf the bills this year after preheats were adjusted then you would know the difference Paulears.

 

Everyones's experience is different. Our lanterns are up from May 'til September, then possibly a few days in Dec. The ambient temperature swing is probably very different to an indoor venue.

 

The O/P asked the question and got responses based on "our" experiences. The topic expanded, as it sometimes does, and one poster even hinted that it would be prudent to consider how many lamps could be supplied from the 13A socket, after all we had no indication on the current rating so to speak of the circuit from which the 13A skt was supplied. You and I might think that if a ring main was involved then the circuit was protected by a 32A breaker say.

 

However if the O/P asked such a question it would not be unreasonable to suppose that their knowledge was not as great as yours for example.

 

We might have gone on to say that the O/P consider the "size" of cable too, depending on the length.

[paulears]

I take your point - but are all these caveats actually needed? On top, we're in great danger of making a huge complicated reply to a very, very, simple question. All these other issues would be great teased out to a few separate topics, but if the OP is asking this kind of question, I just wonder how wise it is to muddy what were rather clear waters?

[ramdram]

It's what we do Paulears ** laughs out loud **. Besides how many times has a topic evolved into a stimulating discussion? Countless times, I do know that. I've almost worn out the gole keys on the k'board just following ideas, let alone posted links.

 

And if I can do it then the nippers could do it too.

[Oovis]

I wasn't going to jump in however the OP was a simple question about using an adapter and there was no context as to where, when, how or who would be using the light so the relevant information was posted by post #4.

 

Our previous show closed a couple of weeks ago following 8 months of tech, previews and the main run and we never use preheat. How many lamps did we change out of a rig of 90-odd PARs and Source4s? Maybe 20. Our main losses were filament lamps fitted to moving lights (Source4 Revolutions (eugh) and DHA digital light curtains) where movement probably knocked them out, not thermal shock. On top of that I suspect our carbon footprint would have been significantly higher having everything glowing away all day for no reason.

[timmeh2]

Hi

 

I'm really very surprised no-one has commented on what cabling to use for your adapter. Frequently I've seen people using any old bit of flex right down to 0.75mm which was getting rather hot.

 

Also be aware that the breaking current of domestic 13A fuses is closer to 20A if you ramp it up slowly.

 

All the best

Timmeh

[maxjones2000]

Following Timmeh's point, I'm going to throw another spanner in the works... [prepares to run for the door...]

 

If the OP will be making/has made the 13 to 15 jumper cable themselves and intend to use it for anything other than dom3stic use, then it might be worth mentioning that you ought to really get the jumper PAT Tested by a qualified person before you use it in a professional or public environment, just in case it was to go wrong and hurt/kill someone/something, because then the 'buck' goes from you (as the person who made it) to whoever PAT tested it, as effectively, they confirmed that it was safe to use (I know its a hint of the 'blame culture' which I am TOTALLY against, but it's what I was taught to do if I make a cable etc).

 

Just thought as no-one else has seemed to mention it (and so it might not be that important!), and it could be quite important depending on the OP's situation.

 

Cheers,

Max J

http://www.blue-room.org.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif

[pritch]

the 'buck' goes from you (as the person who made it) to whoever PAT tested it, as effectively, they confirmed that it was safe to use

 

The words missing from the end there are "at the time they made the sticker out". Once it's out of the tester's sight, they can no longer verify that it's safe to use; the onus is still on whoever is providing the kit to ensure that it's safe. PAT is a snapshot; it proves that the lead was safe for one fleeting moment only. If a tester passes it as safe, only for the OP to slam a flightcase lid on it hours later, it won't be the tester that gets it in the neck when it's used with exposed live cores!

 

Anyway... this is going off topic now, but I'm afraid the whole "Stick a green sticker on it - there, isn't that safer?" attitude is one that really boils my blood. I'll shut up now.

[maxjones2000]

the 'buck' goes from you (as the person who made it) to whoever PAT tested it, as effectively, they confirmed that it was safe to use

 

The words missing from the end there are "at the time they made the sticker out". Once it's out of the tester's sight, they can no longer verify that it's safe to use; the onus is still on whoever is providing the kit to ensure that it's safe. PAT is a snapshot; it proves that the lead was safe for one fleeting moment only. If a tester passes it as safe, only for the OP to slam a flightcase lid on it hours later, it won't be the tester that gets it in the neck when it's used with exposed live cores!

 

Anyway... this is going off topic now, but I'm afraid the whole "Stick a green sticker on it - there, isn't that safer?" attitude is one that really boils my blood. I'll shut up now.

 

I didn't know that! I just assumed that it meant it was 'safe' for the period of time (although that is quite naive, especially considering that I've seen how some touring companies (the ones without technicians) look after their equipment..).

 

I suppose in that respect, there isn't much point of PAT testing, as it doesn't really tell you much other than it was safe for this three-minute period five months ago! (just for the record, it's still best to make sure everything is tested)

 

Learn something new everyday!! (Including how to differentiate trig today...)

 

Thanks for letting me know about that!

 

 

Back on topic now... http://www.blue-room.org.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif

 

 

 

[mr_towers]

Any reasonable technician will do a visual inspection of the cable/equipment/counterweight set/truss before it gets used. A green sticker's nae good if the plug is smashed, or if there's problems within the cable and it feels funny, or if a bit a bit of steel rope is blatantly about to fail.

 

Electricity at work just calls for a testing and maintenance regime, PAT is used to fulfil this need. It isn't the best system, and if you use a different one as long as it is suitable then that's fine and dandy.