Jump to content

Move to laptop


raymond.faccini

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 37
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Simpler to use am 3.5mm TRS to 2 x TRS lead (achieves the same thing as suggested above) but sometimes digital 'hash' from the switched mode PSU on the lappie will get into the audio stream also as above). This can be proved as the problem if the laptop works without noise when running on battery, if so, some kind of isolation (usually by transformer) will be required.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Simpler to use am 3.5mm TRS to 2 x TRS lead (achieves the same thing as suggested above) but sometimes digital 'hash' from the switched mode PSU on the lappie will get into the audio stream also as above). This can be proved as the problem if the laptop works without noise when running on battery, if so, some kind of isolation (usually by transformer) will be required.

 

Sam - are you suggesting taking audio out of the laptop on the headphone jack, rather than USB?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The ironic thing is that 3.5mm from a Mac rarely causes any snags, and the internal audio is pretty decent - totally unlike ally he gaffing around trying to get a PC, in particular, Dells who seem incapable of producing decent audio at all!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Simpler to use am 3.5mm TRS to 2 x TRS lead (achieves the same thing as suggested above) but sometimes digital 'hash' from the switched mode PSU on the lappie will get into the audio stream also as above). This can be proved as the problem if the laptop works without noise when running on battery, if so, some kind of isolation (usually by transformer) will be required.

 

Not really, it wouldn't be my ideal (though as PaulEars says with a mac it does seem to work reasonable well). I think I've just worked out how you'd use your XLR-TRS adapters, XLR out of the interface and TRS into the desk line input (thus avoiding phantom powered mic in)? T'was late last night when I posted http://www.blue-room.org.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/dry.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How did I miss this one. I have a lot of catching up to do!

 

Hi

It sounds as if you were going into the wrong input but what you need is one of these My link and then you can output the laptop to a line input on your mixer.

That should cure your problem.

 

HTH

PJ

 

I third or fourth or fifth the recommendation of the Behringer UCA222. With this and a pair of phono to TS cables you can plug straight into a line input on your mixer with no worries about phantom, level matching or whatever.

 

 

If you want a quick, driverless solution on a budget, these are pretty good:

http://cpc.farnell.com/1/1/14176-interface-usb-22-XLR-av17492.html

 

There used to be an XLR and a TRS version, I preferred the latter (now discontinued), as it eliminates the risk of sending 48v phantom up it.

 

Of course you can spend a lot more and get a full featured multi-channel Motu, Focusrite, etc unit. But for what you've described, the sound quality you will get for your £33 will be better than any mini jack output.

 

I wouldn't touch an interface that goes to an XLR. Almost all line level inputs on a mixer are TRS or TS so, besides the phantom risk, you'll have level matching issues and tie up a pair of mic inputs which, in most settings, are like gold dust. Assuming when you say Behringer 1000 you mean the PMP1000, then the line inputs are indeed on quarter inch jacks. The Behringer interface is no more expensive and much more what you need.

 

Why a laptop? It costs more and it isn't better.

 

If you must get from laptop to audio try this USB External Sound Box Maplin Product Code: A56AK Currently for £15 it saves all the issues with ground loops power hum and red noise and gives you a good level for line or head phone.

 

If you are an am dram group keep the technology out! the next person may not be able to use it properly.

 

Frankly people are likely more familiar with computers and laptops these days than they are with CD decks--and, set up properly, a computer can be more reliable. Getting a CD to stop between cues and so on can be a real pain. I moved from mini disk to computer about 15 years ago and find them far more reliable and user friendly than CDs or minidisks.

 

The CPC interface is fine - but I'll repeat Tony's warning, from personal experience. Make sure you don't plug it into an input which has phantom power enabled! I did, and something got fried.

 

Yes...and don't forget that XLR inputs to almost every mixer are for mic level, not line level.

 

I swear by these:

 

http://interspaceind.com/audio-products/pc-bal-box-detail

 

They have Pad, mono/stereo, and earth/lift switches and are really robustly made.

 

They may do a great job but they're doing a great job on a rubbish signal. Headphone outs are for headphones and Skype calls. It's all too easy to accidentally shift the headphone level mid show too. Go with a USB interface.

 

Now, a few other thoughts:

 

Keep the amount of rubbish installed on your computer to a minimum if using it for sound. If it must be a general purpose computer, either set up a dual boot that only opens the bare bones when doing sound or use a programme like "End it All" to close anything unnecessary.

 

Turn off all system sounds in the Windows control panel and also turn off all power management, screen savers etc.

 

The suggestion above to have audio editing software on the same computer is a great idea. The ability to tweak levels, trim in and out points, maybe apply some EQ while sitting there in the theatre is great. Audacity is free and simple but, depending on your needs, can be limiting. You might also consider Reaper...much more capable, free to try for an unlimited time and only $60 when you buy it...but the learning curve will be steeper.

 

If some of the shows you do require you to busk a lot of random cues, have a look at SOUND PLANT. It's freeware (for the basic version which limits you to wave file playback...you have to pay for MP3 but I'd never consider MP3 for a show anyway). It lets you put a different sound effect or music track on each keyboard key and play them instantly at random. Learn the basic looking option keys for what the next key press does and it becomes a powerful tool.

 

Anyhow, good luck and have fun. I doubt you'll regret the move--but your expectations and ambitions will certainly go up!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 for Soundplant - allows you to play back multiple streams too so you can kick off a wildtrack and then trigger a thunderclap and a car horn and more all on top of each other. Brilliant at the "price"

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The ironic thing is that 3.5mm from a Mac rarely causes any snags, and the internal audio is pretty decent - totally unlike ally he gaffing around trying to get a PC, in particular, Dells who seem incapable of producing decent audio at all!

 

This doesn't match with my experience which is that the internal sound cards on Macs can be as bad or worse than their Windows equivalents. I have a friend in the UK with a Mac desktop and an MBP and he used to ship me tons of his recordings so I could noise reduce them in Audition.

 

I suppose it may be that the problem was on the input side and the output was okay--but, then again, the output of Windows machines also seems okay to me so long as the input pre amps aren't involved.

 

Anyhow, I'd always recommend the use of an external USB interface rather than a headphone socket. I don't like the ability to (too easily) change the headphone level) and I find the jacks small, flimsy and too easy to disconnect by accident.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
I swear by these:http://interspaceind.com/audio-products/pc-bal-box-detailThey have Pad, mono/stereo, and earth/lift switches and are really robustly made.
They may do a great job but they're doing a great job on a rubbish signal. Headphone outs are for headphones and Skype calls. It's all too easy to accidentally shift the headphone level mid show too. Go with a USB interface.

There is a USB version now available as well - My http://interspaceind.com/audio-products/usb-balbox-detail

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I third or fourth or fifth the recommendation of the Behringer UCA222. With this and a pair of phono to TS cables you can plug straight into a line input on your mixer with no worries about phantom, level matching or whatever.

 

+1 from me. I use a PC at home for music, and have shamefully been aware for years that its build in output is pretty ropey. Based on the recommendation above, I picked up a Behringer UCA202. Cheap as chips (under £20 on ebay) and the difference on my PC is night and day.

 

Even better still, this thing needs no drivers - which is a real plus!

 

The Interspace BalBox looks great, but bang for buck I can't knock the Behringer...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure I consider the lack of dedicated drivers a "plus". The audio implementation in Windoze is something akin to the spawn of Satan, designed much more for watching Youtube and making Skype calls than doing anything serious.

 

Lest the Apple brigade gloat, your "Core Audio" is only marginally better.

 

Given my druthers, I'd have drivers that keep the audio playback separate from either system's internal audio.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this thread was one of those I just read with sideways interest - but reading always becomes more relevant when you have a real issue - and last week a function band plonked a laptop down next to me and asked could I plug it in for music between sets. with no notice, the only thing I had to hand was a mini jack to two mono jacks which went into a stereo channel on the analogue desk I was using. the volume out of the desk was kept low (just background music hile people talked and troughed at the buffet) and the sound was ok but doing my post mortem afterwards in my head reminded me of this thread.

The behri usb adapter looks perfect for the job and I am tempted to just throw one in the box but is it fast - in other words do you simply plug into any usb on a laptop and receive an audio signal straight away? or do you have to configure?

I'm thinking of something that sits in the box until someone else (or the same guy) plonks another laptop (mac or pc) in front of me and then provides an instant solution.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.