Jump to content

LED Pars


BlueShift

Recommended Posts

do you reakon AVO will have a fixture personality for the cheap ones so that I can just bung them straight into a pearl?

 

They do, yes. Although personally I found it more useful to ditch the extra channels and just use the RGB. For this there are obviously plenty of usable personalities in either HTP or LTP.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 487
  • Created
  • Last Reply
quite fancy giving some cheap LED floor cans a bash. My big question is: do you reakon AVO will have a fixture personality for the cheap ones so that I can just bung them straight into a pearl?

Doubt it to be honest.

As has been discussed before, trying to build a personality for a cheap LED par is tricky as very few will have an overall intensity channel.

 

And the big desk players seldom bother to build anything for budget market fixtures - for obvious reasons...

 

They do, yes. Although personally I found it more useful to ditch the extra channels and just use the RGB.

Looks like I need to stand corrected...

Hmmm....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like I need to stand corrected...

Hmmm....

 

** laughs out loud **! One should have checked the library beforehand ;)

 

Avo don't prejudice fixtures. Their library is huge and already contains files for each variation of these units (not that there's any difference!).

 

If a fixture is DMX it will have a personality and if not you can submit details and it will be written.

 

They are also quite easy to write yourself should you require and one user has even written a very nice application to do this and more. Latest version

 

Thread on the software: http://avolitesshop.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=477

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wouldn't that make one of them a PARsomethingelsethan64? ;)

Heh, they're like shortnose cans, I guess.

 

If you unplug the microphone, would they hold their last state (like we'd want them to), go dark, or go crazy?

They will turn red, as red is the first color in the microphone triggered sequence.

 

HOWEVER: The new version of these fixtures linky have a dipswitch, that disables the music triggering. They made it on my request, and I'm really happy that they listened to me as a very small customer.

 

As has been discussed before, trying to build a personality for a cheap LED par is tricky as very few will have an overall intensity channel.

The JB Systems I've mentioned earlier does have an intensity channel. And they're generally brighter than the Showtec/Stairville ones e.g., as they have 212 LEDs in comparison to 151 LEDs as most other cheap units have.

 

As a little side note. I'm getting rid of some Thomas Pixeline 1044s

 

How much are you selling them for? I am curious, as I have considering getting hold on some second hand ones, if the price was right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They are in the classified section. Not sure if I'm allowed to say (so sorry and I wont do it again if I get my knuckles wrapped),.

 

Ah, just noticed it's not been added yet. It will be soon.

 

Moderation: TERMS & CONDITIONS - we don't insert prices and other selling info in a general topic - that's what classifieds are for. Prices removed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Was just looking at the Thomann site for cheap LEDs, anyone know whether this one:

http://www.thomann.de/gb/eurolite_led_par_..._10_mm_leds.htm

Is significantly better than this one:

http://www.thomann.de/gb/stairville_led_pa...alu_poliert.htm

 

The first one is £55 and has 183 10mm LEDs, power consumption 32W.

The second is £32 and looks like it has 153 5mm LEDs, but no figures are quoted.

 

If the light output from the more expensive one is double the cheap one then it makes a sensible buy for me, as transport is an important consideration for me (i.e. 6 of these rather than 12 of those will fit in the car better!)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This has been asked before (I think?) Perhaps the answer is in here somewhere.

 

But if I were you I'd buy the cheaper ones. Chances are the output isn't so drastically different that you could use half as many. Beam width is almost certainly the same anyway and you have a lot more flexibility with twelve fixtures than six.

 

Agreed. Someone else's turn to buy one for the review this time!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This has been asked before (I think?) Perhaps the answer is in here somewhere.

 

But if I were you I'd buy the cheaper ones. Chances are the output isn't so drastically different that you could use half as many.

 

I did search the forums before asking, and I had found references to the Eurolite par56:

http://www.thomann.de/gb/eurolite_ledpar_5...artner_id=79570

 

Which seems to have the 151x5mm LEDs and 20w power consumption, wheras the par64 has 183x10mm LEDs and a power consumption of 32w.

 

If they were similarly spec'd then I'd have no hesitation in going for the cheapo ones, but I don't think we're comparing apples with apples here.

Anyone actually used them?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone actually used them?

TBH, unless anyone has done any real measurements on them, similar to those I did comparing LEDs to PARs, you'll not get a meaningful answer. The human eye is really bad at judging 'brightness'.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I haven't used the Eurolite LED Par 56s, but their Ultrabright LED Par 64s are very good. I would assume the quality is as good on the 56s as the 64s. I've also bought & used other (cheap) brands of LED Pars, and Eurolite are my fave so far...

 

(edited for accuracy)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm, I was just looking at the figures really. The par64 has 20% more LEDs, but consumes 60% more power. Assuming (dangerous I know) similar efficiency, I would think the par64 would be brighter. Also the 10mm LEDs have a narrower beam angle so the pool of light would be smaller and brighter even with the same light output.

I also think the par64 looks better (from the front, anyway) as the LEDs seem to be almost touching and you can't see the board they are mounted on (almost look like a pebble convex lens).

I'm slowly talking myself into them aren't I?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.